Posts Tagged ‘jacket’

Museum date euphoria!

August 12, 2009

We (read: I) decided that it was time to lift our soft and cosy bottoms from the computer chairs and visit the county museum – after three years living here I still hadn’t been.
   Örebro County Museum (Örebro Läns Museum) isn’t very big at all, but I felt it MUST be worth a visit – every museum, in my mind, is! It was allright, but we seemed to have saved the best for last.
   They have a room called “Klenodkammaren” – The Treasue Chamber (roughly), there they keep mostly jewellry, coins and silver cups. But when I first looked through the doorway my eyes met a green silk dress… I rushed past the display cases of viking jewellry and old coins and pressed my face against the glass. “Late 18th century” I said with a dry voice and blinked a few times… I inspected the fabric, the pink flower pattern, the cut, and sighed. It was an original allright, but it hung all wrong – it was a simple two pieced outfit with a fully closed jacket and a petticoat, the petticoat hung straight down from where the jacket ended and was made to stand out at the bottom – not even a hint of hips!
   I didn’t let it bother me very long though – because in the corner of my eye I saw a pair of shoes. They had the common 18th century look with a flower pattern in mostly greens and pinks – not the same fabric as the dress, but they kinda matched. When I found out the size was a 36 I had a brief weak moment and thought of ways to make them mine – most ways were illegal. ;P
   When I felt I had seen all details I wanted to see, and could see without breaking the glass I sighed again; a signal for Robbie who called my name: “How about some 18th century garters?” I rushed through the room again and pressed my face against another glass. They had three beautifully embroidered garters, and what a petite flower embroidery it was! They were beautiful! Nowhere on the net have I seen such beautiful gartes! I wish I could do such petite embroidery – if I could I wouldn’t hesitate to make copies of exactly those garters!
   I let my wide eyes fall from the garters and down on two as beautifully embroidered pocket books – extremely small stitches made up vines of small oh so small flowers… Long, long I admired them – and sighed over my now seemingly extremely clumsy hands.
   Sadly there were no cameras allowed – and I respected that. This is the only photo from Klenodkammaren I could find:

Knoppar

Report

July 30, 2009

Today I’ve finished and fitted the mock-up for the pet-en-l’air! And if I didn’t say so earlier, I’m using the pattern for a Robe à la Francaise  La Couturière Parisienne provides on their site – the measurements fits me perfectly, how lucky is that!?

contouche_e bodice back

Actually I basicly could start cutting the actual pieces right now – but my back and knees are hurting like hell from kneeling on the floor half the day… XD Some one please buy me a mansion with an atelier and a cutting table!!!

Tailor

More inspirational striped pet-en-l’airs

February 23, 2009

I googled “pet-en-l’air” once again for some reason a couple of days ago and found just what I have been looking for since I started! Surviving examples of pet-en-l’airs with striped fabrics – like the fabric I’m using! They’re so darn beautiful I think I might have an episode!

So far I have been a bit cautious with a lot of my ideas for the project – looking for picture evidence or evidence in surviving pieces before I decide on what I’m going to do. One thing that had been bothering me was that I couldn’t find any evidece of pet-en-l’airs in striped fabrics. And we all know how picky they were in that time, was there a “style law” that said “no striped en-l’airs!”? I wouldn’t want to do such a great faux-pas! But here they are!!! I’m so excited! =D
   Now… I wonder if they usually had petticoats in different colored fabrics or in the same as the top… Hmm…
   The site where I found them – Hysterical Costumer – was a nice new addition to my favourites folder also, so go check it out! =)

Antique tempresses

January 3, 2009

Just came home from a day well spent at my parents-in-law’s, sat down in front of the computer to feed my current and steadily growing addiction of the 18th century – not that I wasn’t addicted before, but right now everything I do seems to have a connection to this project!
   Anywhooooos! I spent the day thinking of techniques for the emdoidery for the stomacher, browsing my mother-in-law’s, Kristina’s, books on textile handicrafts and embroidery. I have been thinking a lot of ahat kind of fabric I should use as a bottom for the embroidery, what color it should be – if it should match the robe or the petticoat, should I make it to match bothe the first fabric and the second? When I came home I browsed my images of antique dresses to see what was most common and then I yet again searched the net for new influences. I sumbled upon this little temptress of a very short pet-en-l’air:

Pet-en-l'air

Isn’t she goooorgeous? I feel very tempted to make my first pice very much like this! Found her on the Mancheseter Art Gallery’s site: www.manchestergalleries.org (go directly to the full item description by clicking the image).

And how about this little beauty?

CE000618

I can’t tell if it’s a pet-en-l’air or caraco or what ever – but it is certainly absolutely gorgeous! Love that it over all is so simple while the ruffles on the arms are more elaborated. Found at museodeltraje.mcu.es (go directly to the full item description by clicking the image).

And another very inspiring piece is this jacket:

jacket

It’s nothing like what I’m planning, and it’s early 18th century, but I love the shape of it, the fabric, the colors and the sleeeeeeeves!!! ❤ From the same site as above (go directly to the full item description by clicking the image).
   I found links to these pieces at another site I actually hadn’t visited so far, or I think I visited it but didn’t pay attention to the vast collection of links to these antique objects. I think I doubled the size of my 18th century fashion folder, hehe ^^; The site is: http://www.demodecouture.com/realvict/ – creds to them! =D

 

Pet-en-l’air

December 7, 2008

So, a very friendly girl with similar interests in 18th century clothing as me; Johanna (her blog), commented on my last blog entry and notified me that the “caraco”-type dress I was going for was called pet-en-l’air.
   That I can tell you was some very helpful information – so thank you again Johanna! =D

Thoughts about the dress/jacket

December 7, 2008

So, the petticoat will be made out of the goldish fabric and making a skirt is simple enough. But the design and pattern of the “robe” is something I really hade to think hard and long about. I only have that bit of fabric, I bought it second hand and I don’t know if I can find more with the exact pattern and colors. =/
   I think I’ll have to make a caraco jacket, which kinda (after my research) is like an ordinary robe à la française or anglaise but shorter. If I start with the top (the bodice part) I can just make the skirt part as long as the fabric allows. I would very much like to have the trail draping (watteau folds?) of a robe a la francaise, but I don’t know if the amount of fabric would allow that. =/

This closely resembles what I had in mind:

Caraco

Most vintage caraco jackets I’ve found pictures of around the net go together fully in the front, without stomacher But it looks like this one has a stomacher. It also has that draping (watteau folds?) in the back! So I think I can justify my combining the stomacher with a caraco jacket as pretty time-typical by refering to this image, hehe ^^;
   This looks to be of the time of the later half of the century where women started to cover up their bosoms, sleeves grew longer, the hip width shrinked and the bum grew. So I’m faced with a dilemma; I want the deep décolletage and the wide hips with the pocket hoops! =/
   Oh well, I’ll do a litte more detailed research, hehe. <D


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