Archive for the ‘Fabric’ Category

Flannel?

September 14, 2009

I was just watching Cranford (mid 1800’s) on SVT Play and they mentioned flannel – It got me thinking about my previous assumption that flannel didn’t exist in the 18th century – maybe it did?
   Googling it I found this on Wikipedia:

The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century. (Wikipedia: Flannel)

   Which got me googling further and I found this:

Dicky was 18th century slang for a flannel petticoat (Probert Encyclopaedia)

   It apperas this is all said about wool flannel though, and I got that super cute cotton flannel I wanted to use… Hmpf… Oh well, it seems flannel wasn’t really used for anything other than undergarments anyway so… =/ I guess it still has to be for a not very accurate project, hehe… ^^;

How cheap I really am!

September 9, 2009

In my last post I said quote:

– Wow, this has really become a quest for the cheapest way to make an as accurate as possible 18th century outfit, hehe ;P I’ll have to try and write down exactly how little I actually have spent on this project! =D The shoes cost no more than 50 SEK btw – about $5 I should think. ;D

And now I have summarized, to that extent my memory could manage, how much I have spent on stuff and materials for my very first “as-accurate-as-possible-for-as-little-monye-as-possible-18th-century-outfit”.
   You can view the whole list at the page “What I’ve spent so far” to your right. But I’ll give you the whole so-far-total right here and now, and I am serious!:

273 SEK ≈ 27 EUR ≈ 39 USD ≈ 23,50 GBP

Shoes for meee!

August 27, 2009

JOY, oh joy, oh joy!
   Indeed I have found myself a pair of shoes for this little (read: HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE) project of mine! I really do love Myrorna – the charity chain of second hand stores! They were perfect, perfect size, perfect heel, I dare almost say that even the material is perfect!
   Okay okay! Here’s two pics:

Shoes 1 

Shoes 2

The material is black suede, at first I thought I’d have to redress the whole shoe – thinking that they didn’t use suede for shoes in the 18th century. Turns out there are a few examples of suede shoes from the time:

Suede shoes

Aren’t they cute? I Know these are late 18th century, but here’s an example of mid 18th century shoes in suede.
   So now all I have to do is remove that horrible elastic weft of rubber bands. *Shiver with utter dislike* Oh, and find a rather small amount of black suede for tounges and stuff, and buckles… ^^

Pics: lining, draping, buttons – and me…

August 18, 2009

I know I’m a bit late adding these, but I haven’t gotten much further in the progress anyway so I guess it’s allright, hehe ;P
   First we have the fabric choice for the lining of the pet-en-l’air; I had an old linen sheet with a middle seem that my mother or grandmother had colored minty green for some reason. When I asked my mother if I could have it, at least 5 years ago, I had in mind to use it for somethin midieval or what ever, but I never got to it. I realized it was perfect for this project. The fabric left over is enough to make an under petticoat too. ;D

Minty linen

This is the pieces cut out:

parts

And this is the back part with lacing (ignore the colors! ^^;). I actually got two spring boning pieces (?) I found at Robbie’s grandmother’s that I put in there! ;D

back lacing

Detail, you know me, love little details no one will ever notice! XD

detail

I actually used the machine for the seems… ^^;

inner seem

This is the draping in the back, this is all made by hand:

draping

On the picture above one sleeve is also attached. This is where I was thinking of putting in a picture of me trying the whole thing out. But you’ll have to keep your pants on until you’ve seen my first try at embroidered buttons. ;P I used both cotton and flax threads, but the colors were too perfect and I am cheap as allways!

This first one is a bigger version than I’m going to use for the per-en-l’air, I was just trying it out. =)

big button

Then I tried to come up with an actual design I am going to use, on a smaller button, this is the result:

small button

It’s about 1.5 cm in diameter, it sounds big, but it’s not that big really.
Oh, and here’s a test I did just to see how it would look with that gathered trim I was talking about (don’t know if it shows very good):

trim

Now to the part I guess both all of you and I have been waiting for: me trying the whole thing out! Before you have a look I just want to say that the “stomacher” is just some fabric I have pinned on, the lace in the neckline is still not attached to shifts but rather tucked down there to demonstrate how (I hope) it will look. The goldish fabric underneath is the fabric I’m going to use for a petticoat, wrapped around my waist. And just ignore my tries to hide bathroom stuff behind cheezy ornaments! XD And I knoooow the sleeves look short, ignore that too please – I’m going to fix it! XD

Meeeep

 Wow, I really have to practice my pinning skillz – it’s haaaard! =´´´( Tips?

Time over = two sleeves!

August 7, 2009

So I got a few minutes over today and managed to put on the last sleeve, yay! =D
   I also took some measurements and made some calculations for the trim – I’ll need about 4 meters of finished gathered fabric, if I make strips about 3.5 cm wide I think It’ll be enough. Trying some pleating and gathering I’ve concluded that gathering probably will be both easier and save more fabric – it really doesn’t have to be as complicated as it sounds or looks. =) It was hell trying to pleat this fabric. =/ Oh, and I’m pinking the edges of the trim straight off, it looks allright. =)

Speeding up and having to slow down…

August 6, 2009

So, lately things have been moving forward in quite the pace! =D I’m starting to see what the finished product will look like and that’s allways a great cookie to keep you motivated! =D *Gaaaaargh, coooooockiiiiiiiieeees*
   Hrm… Yeah, so I’m quite pleased with myself! I have been using my fancy sewing machine for inside seems, simply because I think it’ll hold better – and yes for comfort and speed also indeed! But all hems and stuff will be hand sewn. ;D
   I’ve also gotten comments on the button topic. I can’t believe I didn’t think of embroidiered buttons!!! I have seen them and thought “That’s something I want to do some day!”. So today I had my first try – it was easy peasy! =D (Pics to come…) The only thing that’s bothering me though, is that I can’t seem to find many embroidered buttons on women’s clothing – only men’s! =/ Thoughts on that?

Buttons

And on the trim topic: Abby had some great thoughts that I, for some reason, never even thought about: “trim really changed rapidly through the 18th century”… I can’t really do what ever I feel is cute if I want it to at least look somewhat time-typical. This, and the fact that I have been feeling a cream colored trim just wouldn’t do the main fabric justice, have made me reconsider my choice of having it that way. You can’t really find many surviving examples of mid 18th c dresses with different colored trims like that. I think I can make a thin trim of the same fabric – with a little patching, hehe. Worst case scenario I can just have the trim from the neck down to the front hem. =)
   These past few days I’ve had to slow down a bit though – I’m planning Robbie’s 30th birthday! It’s this saturday And I’ll be crazy busy cleaning the appartment – sweeping up threads and puting away fabrics that I strategicly have placed all over our floors. XD I feel a bit frustrated about all this – cause I’ve put on only one sleeve and it looks so wrong, hehe. XD Next week I’m hoping to be able to finish most of the actual jacket and start with the stomacher. =D
   Oh yes – I’ve got pics of me trying the whole thing, but you’ll have to wait to next week on that too! ;P

Progress and ideas

August 3, 2009

It seems I won’t have decided on the decoration/trim ideas until the pet-en-l’air is actually finished, hehe. XD
   Anywhooo – I’ve started to put the pieces together, what’s left:

  • Sleeves
  • Hemming
  • Gathering in sides
  • Decoration/trim
  • Stomacher

And on the stomacher point I have great news – it seems I will have enough fabric left to make a stomacher of the same fabric – which I am extremely happy about! I’m considering making a button closed thing like seen on most surviving pet-en-l’airs:

One question that I must consider in that case is buttons; I have these cute metal buttons – but except from riding jackets I haven’t seen metal buttons on womens clothing, so maybe I’d better learn to dress my own buttons. Ooh, I just remembered why it’s so great blogging in matters like this – I come up with new ideas as I write! =D I just rememered I’ve seen another kind of button:

buttons

This is from this dress at FIT. Maybe I’ll just try this version! 😀
   Before I leave you for some sleeve cutting I just want to share some ideas I have:

ideas

Report

July 30, 2009

Today I’ve finished and fitted the mock-up for the pet-en-l’air! And if I didn’t say so earlier, I’m using the pattern for a Robe à la Francaise  La Couturière Parisienne provides on their site – the measurements fits me perfectly, how lucky is that!?

contouche_e bodice back

Actually I basicly could start cutting the actual pieces right now – but my back and knees are hurting like hell from kneeling on the floor half the day… XD Some one please buy me a mansion with an atelier and a cutting table!!!

Tailor

More finds!

July 30, 2009

Some new stuff I have “inherited” from Robbie’s grandmother:

LaceSome lace that will be perfect for shifts! I found a bunch of those little lace flowers – they’ll be perfect for decoration! =D

Buckles and buttonsSome buckles and buttons in metal – perfect! =D The buckles will be perfect for late 18th century style waist bands!

FabricsThree smaller pieces of  striped fabrics – perfect for future projects!

ToolsTools in BONE – perfect for any kind of historical reenactment! ;D

Flanell Two sets of sheets with a super cute pattern in peach and blue.
Actually it’s flanell, but I’ thought it was too darn cute to pass up on – it’ll do good for a project that’s not very accurate, hehe. ^^

Ribbon flowers – it’s THAT easy!

July 30, 2009

Hehe, yeah – right now I’m kinda trying to work up energy to post pictures of my progress and stuff.
   I’ve been trying to figure out how to make nice fabric flowers and it just hit me that I could just google tutorials, hehe ;P Yeah, I am that slow sometimes! XD
   So I found at least two super great tutorials on making two different kinds of ribbon roses. The first one looks like the easiest to me:

The second one is great too though:

And the best thing with this second one is that I found tons of more tutorials from the same user – Di van Niekerk, on making ribbon embroidery and stuff! =D
   Now all I have to do is find some hand painted silk ribbon, or make it myself… *SIGH*


%d bloggers like this: