Thoughts about the dress/jacket

So, the petticoat will be made out of the goldish fabric and making a skirt is simple enough. But the design and pattern of the “robe” is something I really hade to think hard and long about. I only have that bit of fabric, I bought it second hand and I don’t know if I can find more with the exact pattern and colors. =/
   I think I’ll have to make a caraco jacket, which kinda (after my research) is like an ordinary robe à la française or anglaise but shorter. If I start with the top (the bodice part) I can just make the skirt part as long as the fabric allows. I would very much like to have the trail draping (watteau folds?) of a robe a la francaise, but I don’t know if the amount of fabric would allow that. =/

This closely resembles what I had in mind:

Caraco

Most vintage caraco jackets I’ve found pictures of around the net go together fully in the front, without stomacher But it looks like this one has a stomacher. It also has that draping (watteau folds?) in the back! So I think I can justify my combining the stomacher with a caraco jacket as pretty time-typical by refering to this image, hehe ^^;
   This looks to be of the time of the later half of the century where women started to cover up their bosoms, sleeves grew longer, the hip width shrinked and the bum grew. So I’m faced with a dilemma; I want the deep décolletage and the wide hips with the pocket hoops! =/
   Oh well, I’ll do a litte more detailed research, hehe. <D

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7 Responses to “Thoughts about the dress/jacket”

  1. adamnorman Says:

    Har du patterns of fashion av Janet Arnold? Det finns inget mönster på just en sån här jacka, men den är väldigt bra ändå

    • Maria Says:

      Nope det har jag inte… Men jag får väl önska mig den i julklapp, för jag har inte råd att köpa den själv, haha 😄
      Det finns ju rätt ok mönster på nätet, åtminstone kan man använda dem som riktlinjer för ens egna. ^.^

  2. Johanna Says:

    Hej! Tänkte bara komma med ett tips. Modellen av jacka som du verkar vara ute efter kallas pet-en-l’air, så kanske hittar du mer om du söker på det namnet. Den är ungefär exakt en robe a la francais med kort kjol och har vad jag vet allra oftast en stomacher (vet inte vad det heter på svenska, vet du?).

    Bilden du visade här kommer från the Kyoto costume institute, som har gett ut den här jättebra boken: http://18thcenturyblog.com/2008/05/fashion-a-history-from-the-18th-to-the-20th-century I den står att just den här pet-en-l’airen är från ca 1775. På 1770-talet var bara urringningar fortfarande jättepopulära, och även om du skulle göra en senare modell så fortsatte man med bara urringningar även när täckande fichuer (eller stavas det fichy på svenska?) bllivit populära så det skulle ändå varit “korrekt”, om man vill vara det 🙂

    • Maria Says:

      Wow, tack så mycket! =D Det hjälpte verkligen! Hade aldrig dykt på begreppet “pet-en-l’air” för den modellen tidigare, jag som surfat så mycket, haha 😄
      Ja, apropå svenska termer så smittar verkligen internet ner en med alla franska och engelska ord för saker och ting! Har ingen aning om vad stomacher kan heta på svenska – magplatta? Hehe 😄

      Men då lärde jag mig verkligen något idag då, då slipper jag fundera så noga på det där med täck urringning och poscher (eller vad det nu heter).
      Tack igen! =D

  3. Johanna Says:

    Och pocher (poscher? pocket hoops alltså.. jag är jättedåliga på svenska 1700-talsklädtermer) var väldigt vanliga under 1770-talet, så det är inga problem!

  4. Berg Says:

    Vill också rekommendera Arnolds “patterns of fashion”. Jag gjorde, utan att egentligen veta vad jag höll på med, en pet-en-l’air efter mönstret från den boken, med ganska gott resultat (ingen var mer förvånad än jag själv!)

    Mer användarvänliga versioner av Arnold’s mönster finns ju att köpa från bl a USA. Namnet J P Ryan kan vara värt att kolla upp, även om jag inte själv använt dem.

  5. Abby Says:

    So, I can’t read the Swedish very well, minus a few bits about Janet Arnold (I’ll also recommend it!), but I just wanted to say, that I don’t think you need to worry about the chest issues. At the end of the century they became extremely low. I’m working on a mid 1780s zone gown with a pair of 1780s stays (I copied them off a pattern from Jill Salen’s “Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques” Which I also HIGHLY recommend!), and they’re very very low. What happen was that they just covered it up with a kerchief. I’m going to the masquerade ball at Kalmar in October and I’m trying to decide if I want to cover myself up for decency sake, or just let it all hang out. I would say the same with you. I prefer all of my 18th century clothing to have a nice wide and low neckline (it’s prettier) and all my stuff has always been 1770s and later.

    Also, depending on how you would construct a bumroll, you could still have width at the hips. It’s really just dependent on how you make them. With the hoops, I don’t know how it’s going (I haven’t read that far into your blog) but just make sure they sit correctly. You don’t want droopy hoops, you’ll want them to stay up in your actual hip area. I’ve seen this on a lot of re-enactors photos, and it just ruins the look.

    Finally, this is a great project! I like reading how other people make 18th century clothing. I have a blog and I’m trying to make one similar to yours, about my 18th century clothing adventures, however, with a masters dissertation and a blog already going…i’m finding it very difficult to make a whole second blog!

    Also, I don’t know if you have this blog, or if someone has also suggested it to you but http://www.demodecouture.com is AMAZING. She also has posted and organized period costumes by date and what they are…it’s a wonderful resource!

    Good luck with everything! I’m going to keep up with your progress!

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